Kurt Beitler, director of farming and winemaking at Bohème, has a heritage which makes him no stranger to wine as a profession . Before him came four generations of winemakers in California, and several earlier ones from Alsace in France. Therefore it should come as no surprise to anyone, that farming and winemaking runs thick and fast in Kurt’s blood. As we wandered through the vines at Taylor Ridge I saw a man whose passion for wine was in his every breath.

My story begins far from the quiet wilderness of Occidental with a busy weekday night in San Francisco and an outing to a Vin12 event, where a number of winemakers had gathered to showcase their wares. In a room buzzing with young city types I moved carefully from table to table looking for something a little more than ordinary.

The Taylor Ridge 2007 Pinot Noir sparked my interest immediately with its fruit forward nose, buzzing with bright red cherry fruits, cranberries and sweet fig, held together with the traces of crème brulee warm from the oven. On the palate this was a wine which seemed to undulate like mists over the tongue, rich and luxurious, medium in body with distinctive levels which drew me back time and time again to try and fathom what I was experiencing.

Interest in the producer had been sparked, and after a few exchanged emails it was decided that for me to best understand the Bohème wines, I should travel up to Occidental and meet Kurt in person.

So on a wet and monsoon-like day, I traveled north to the tiny town of Occidental and in the understated charm of Underwood Restaurant,  we met to taste some of his other wines and discuss the story behind Bohème.

Bohème is situated near the Bohemian Highway in the small town of Occidental,  just seven and a half miles from the Sonoma Coast, with cool climate conditions suitable for pinot noir, syrah and chardonnay grapes.

The Bohème ethos is for each of the wines to be an ‘artistic expression’ of themselves, for the wines to encapsulate the beauty of the natural area from which they are from and allow the bohemian free spirit and passion to be captured timelessly within the wines. On my visit I saw the beauty of these rolling vineyards and as Kurt led me around the vineyards, it became clear he is a man passionate about producing the very best from the land he could.

Originally from Oregon, Kurt came to California to study finance and economic policy at Santa Clara University. After finishing his time there, he was encouraged by his grandfather, Charles Wagner and his uncle, Chuck to work with the family’s Caymus winery, in Rutherford Napa. In 2000 Kurt took on his first major vineyard management assignment at Belle Glos Taylor Lane Vineyard, which is where he would later found Bohème. 

The wines we tasted together at Underwood were the 2007 Taylor Ridge Chardonnay, the 2006 Taylor Ridge Pinot Noir and the 2004 Que Syrah Syrah.

2007 Taylor Ridge Chardonnay: $35

This vineyard is just under 5 acres, about 45%/2.2 acres is chardonnay and the other 55%/2.7 acres is pinot noir. The pinot noir portion of the vineyard is all Swan clone, and was planted in 2001.  So by 2007, six years in the ground, it was able to produce three vintages with the first being the 2005. 2005 was the nightmare vintage, a year in which there was hardly any fruit. 

The Wente Clone is a high quality chardonnay and the berries are tiny, smaller than the nail on most people’s little finger. Small clusters are produced and generally, it’s a low yield grape. Taylor Ridge is a very cool climate vineyard which leads to a long growing season. The fruit was whole-cluster pressed, then settled for one day, racked into French oak barrels and barrel fermented. The 2007 vintage allowed Kurt to make a stylish transition, away from a lot of oak to a more reduced presence. In 2006 vintage he was concerned the wine had become too rich, even though he was using a small amount of new oak and so in 2007 he decided to incorporate one stainless steel barrel.

The Sonoma coast chardonnay aroma is prevalent in this wine. It has a balance, a warmth of vanilla and pear alongside a dash of oak, meaning you can still smell the fruit, and the wine gives a good representation of the vineyard site.

N: Lavender, pear, poached pear, a little vanilla, and minerals, wet rock.

P: Creamy and rich. Vanilla, crème brûlée, a little vanilla fudge.

I: Good balance – a good food wine. This is a wine that is well integrated, and holds up well either alone or alongside food.

2006 Taylor Ridge Pinot Noir: $50

This is a wine which at the moment has a wonderful bottle age. The 2007 was Kurt felt, a good vintage, and the wine was going to be incredible in another year. But for the tasting we revisited 2006.

N: There was brightness on the nose, brighter fruit, boysenberry, a slight nose of caramel, in a positive way foot stench. I thought this wine was feisty in nose and held a real vibrancy.

P: Bright and buzzy. Whereas the chardonnay had been far smoother, this was a wine which kicked and shouted, and then settled into a concentrated heap of flavor and emotion on the tongue. Strawberries, plums, made it full-bodied and rich but not heavy, warm with spices like cinnamon however neither acidic nor tannic, this wine had substantial flavour despite its delicacy and elegance.

2004 Que Syrah: $50

2004 was the ripest year, with the best growing season. A reasonable crop load led to 200 cases being produced from two acres and the alcohol level on this wine going up to 14.5%.

This is not a typical California Syrah vineyard. Indeed, Que Syrah may be the coolest climate planting in California, and often reminds customers of a northern Rhone wine in the resulting flavors produced.

N: Full ripe sweet strawberries, cherries, no jamminess to the nose, a little acidity but not enough to spark interest.

P: On the palate this wine came into its own. Rich, soft, full-bodied. No heat. A little stirring of perhaps white pepper as an after taste, but none of the Syrah heat whichI have I been experiencing recently in samples.

I: This is a wine which is at a point where time will really help turn it into a well rounded, integrated wine. The color is rich, the flavors, bold yet compromising and reflective. The nose, soft enough to allow you to really investigate the aromas behind the wine’s composure.

In 4-6 years this wine will be have come into its own and be quite likely, magnificent.

After the tastings we proceeded to a viewing of Taylor Ridge and Stuller vineyards. Taylor Ridge is atop a bluff 5.3 miles from the Pacific Ocean, with the vineyard’s gentle slopes being protected by a sycamore grove.  It was fantastic to see the humble beginnings of such interesting wines. It was clear from the size of the properties and the crop that winemaking is no easy task and the passion that keeps Bohème producing their wines is built on the blood, sweat and tears this land takes from the men who work on her. 

In 2007 the Bodega Rancho project was started, which has shown how Bohème continues to look towards expansion. While in 2009 English Hill Vineyards had its first harvest, which will be released next vintage.

The Bohème ethos is to observe no boundaries. No boundaries of physical or mental restraint – this is clear. The wines show themselves well but benefit from aeration. For the chardonnay, I deeply recommend allowing it to adjust slightly to not quite room temperature, but not too too cold before drinking, as this will release the character of the wine, and one can really get the most from it.

I was pleased to have had the opportunity to meet Kurt and hear about his wines and future projects, as I really feel he has the passion to bring his creations into a whole new sphere of interest. At a time when we are watching our purse strings, $40-plus wines can be painful to purchase. However, what I remembered and what has been brought very much to my attention on my visit north was that occasionally, you truly do get what you pay for. With Bohème, you really do get a feel for the terroir from which the wines originally came.

Bohème wines can be purchased direct, and are also available in SF:

1550 Hyde - wonderful neighbourhood restaurant. Fair prices, consistently great food and service.

Scoma’s - a San Francisco institution.

Anchor & Hope - one of four restaurants from the gentlemen who own Town Hall, Salt House, etc.

AME - one of the most noted  restaurants in SF.

Cask - retail store owned by the people who run Bourbon + Branch and Rickhouse.

Wish - Soma bar. One of SF’s best DJ bars with great staff and service.

Brazen Head - very rustic and old school in style.

K&L Wines

Napa Valley Winery Exchange - really old school wine shop in Union Square. Caters to wealthy tourists. Excellent selection of the very best California wines.

Cavallo Point - absolutely stunning in every way.

The Jug Shop - fun, casual wine shop

Sens - beautiful views of Ferry Building and the Bay.

Coi -

Olympic Club -  private club with downtown facilities, legendary golf course.

William Cross - wine shop in Russian Hill.

The 19^th Annual Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) Festival Grand Tasting was held on the 30^th of January 2010 in the spacious Herbst and Festival Pavilions at San Francisco’s Fort Mason. For the second time, I was lucky enough to attend the trade tasting which began at 10am before the crowds rolled in and as I headed towards the inscribed glasses and baguette rolls I couldn’t help but feel excited. This really is the event for both the ‘movers and groovers’ in the Zinfandel world as well as for some of the new boutique wineries to showcase their wares.

This year the festival featured the celebrated chef Beverly Gannon, founder of the Hawai’i Regional Cuisine movement. This choice was made after ZAP selected the theme – ‘Zin in Paradise’ which led to wonderful Hawaiian decorations filling the halls and members to sport zany flowered shirts in vibrant reds. The combining of food with wine is not a new feature but it is definitely effective in drawing in a wider audience.

So in case you weren’t there on Saturday, and were wondering what exactly the ‘‘Grand Zinfandel Tasting’ is, here is a general round up. The Annual Tasting  allows both trade and the general public to attend and is the ultimate showcase of Zinfandel, new releases and hundreds of barrel samples. (The latter being one of the most exciting elements as it allows you to see what exactly is in the pipeline, before it is released).

But what is Zinfandel? For many Zinfandel is considered the heritage grape of California. However using its DNA, the origin of the Zinfandel grape has been traced back to ‘Primitivo’, an Italian grape. Its history suggests possibly ancestry even further back then that, to a grape which was originally grown in Croatia called Crljenak. Frederick Macondray is credited with bringing Zinfandel to California where it was planted by many of the Italian immigrants who moved to the wine growing regions of California, where it was made into table wine for mostly personal consumption, or used as a blending grape with other varietals. 

So what are you looking for in Zinfandel? As in any wine, the balance is never solid or stable however the most obvious things are aromas and flavors of dark cherry, blackberry, raspberry and boysenberry. These flavors of fruit are often intermingled with the warmth and spice of black pepper, anise and clove. The term ‘jammy’ is usually associated with Zinfandel due to concentrated flavors that are not dissimilar to berry jams. However some of the more complex Zinfandels require a little aeration to allow the fruit to show itself in its true colours.

The Grand Tasting really is the place to fulfill all your Zinfandel desires as you wander from table to table having your glass filled (only to the correct amount of course) with the ruby red juice.

The interior space was well organized with clear signage of producers and vineyards. It was clear that many members of the trade and media had been there when the doors opened and already the number of baguettes was less then had been imagined, while at only 10.45am, the castles of cheese had begun to show structural difficulties. 

As always there were strong tidal effects in place. People gravitated towards the busier tables and I was forced to reconsider an article on ‘Tastings Manners’.  .

There were some old favourites; Robert Biale’s table had a crowd not dissimilar to ones I had seen gathering for autographs from bands and their product was still showing a high level of calibre. Their 2008 Grand Vinyard had a rich juicy texture and was very fruit forward, revealing subtle hints of vanilla and spice behind its plump juicy red berries. Some of the Zinfandels I was already familiar with, Chateau Montelena, Clos du Bois, Mazzocco and Orin Swift to name but a few as well as some new names which had entered the market. In all fairness, I think it is really quite hard to give fair tasting reviews at such an event as, I find everything is so rushed and fraught that to actually appreciate the wine is quite hard. Yet a few names made my list and over the coming weeks I hope to be able to review them in a fair and equal setting.

About three quarters of the way into proceedings I decided to take a breath of fresh air outside and I was shocked to see the length of the queue of the general public as it stretched into the distance ahead of me. Americans are clearly are still taking their Zinfandel very seriously and aren’t afraid to pay to sample what is on offer. ZAP members receive a $10 discount off the non-member price of $59. When I interviewed some of the crowd about the festival and ticket prices I was impressed to see unbridled enthusiasm in support of such events and positivity in regards to meeting the people behind the bottles and hearing their stories. Some individuals had been before, others were new but all were agreed that it was a fantastic opportunity to sample the old and the new side by side, possibly find some bargains, but also find some cellar-worthy stars.

In conclusion, a well organized, well attended event with several surprises and some old favorites. 

Nestled between the boutique shops in San Francisco’s Hayes Valley quietly sits ‘Absinthe’, at 398 Hayes Street. A treasure trove of culinary delights. Many go there for the food. Others go for the wine. Whichever your sin of choice is – here you will find it in quantity. Whenever I have friends from out of town staying, Absinthe is often called upon to show the true nature of San Francisco dining in all its sparkling beauty. And so it was on last Saturday night that we stepped from the cool night air of San Francisco into the warm glow of the restaurant and were soon seated in an intimate corner away from the Saturday buzz at the bar.

Seated at our table, the real fun began as we perused the extensive wine and spirits list. My guests were unfamiliar with Californian wines, and I wanted them to experience something that would make them question their Old World loyalties. So I asked for the sommelier’s assistance, and was rewarded by his recommendation of the 2007 Outpost Grenache.

GRENACHE

For those of you unfamiliar with Grenache, the varietal ripens late in the season and requires dry, hot conditions. It has a relatively high alcohol content, and normally shows the qualities of spice and berries while remaining smooth on the palate. Due to its tendency to lack acid, tannin and colour you will often find Grenache blended with other varieties like Carignan or Syrah.  The Aussies often blend it with Mourvedre and Syrah.

Grenache provides high yields and  in the early days of the Californian wine industry this made it an ideal component for blending. In the 1980’s a group of winemakers decided to break away from the grapes, which were dominating the wine industry ( chardonnays and cabernet sauvignons) and started to focus on Rhone grapes. Although Rhone varietals were not new to California there weren’t large quantities or a varied selection and these ‘Rhone Rangers’ as they were dubbed, began planting other Rhone varietals including roussanne and viognier.

OUTPOST

Established in 1998, Outpost had the mission of producing wines that were ‘a living, breathing embodiment of this piece of extraordinary land’.  And extraordinary the land is. Red, rocky soil, with high altitude, a sunny western exposure combined with gentle breezes leads to the production of fruit that is rich and complex like the land it comes from.

The unique confluence of environmental factors at the Outpost vineyards - volcanic, rocky red soil, high altitude, gentle cooling breezes and sunny western exposure - produces fruit of incredible complexity and richness, with a distinct mountain palette you simply can’t find anywhere else.

Grapes are harvested late in the season by hand and the wine is produced with as little manipulation as possible accentuating  the spicy qualities of this mountain fruit.

The winemaker, Thomas Rivers Brown is originally from Sumter, South Carolina.  Thomas developed his interest in wine while studying at the University of Virginia and while there traveled to France several times a year.  After he left college he worked in Calistoga, and it was there that he was lucky enough to be hired by Ehren Jordan at Turley in the late 1990’s.

In 2008 Thomas achieved two ‘100 point’ scores from Robert M. Parker, Jr. in The Wine Advocate for the 2006 Schrader CCS Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2006 Schrader “Old Sparky”, making him the first winemaker in the Advocate’s history to do so. Thomas now consults at Black-Sears, Casa Piena, Chiarello, Diamond Terrace, Harris Estate, Jones Family, Round Pond and Wallis alongside managing his own label, Rivers-Marie that is an amalgamation of his name and his wife Geneveieve. 

On first opening, I thought it a little tight, however we patiently waited and soon the wine began to relax and reveal its true colours. A chocolate box wine, (by which I mean that it was a palette of concentrated and indulgent surprises) the nose was rich and intense. White pepper, a hint of tobacco, vanilla and cassis intermingled with black cherry and winter fruit. Rose and lilac held their own alongside pepper notes and cinnamon spice. This was a wine, which kept growing in the glass. Modern ideas embracing old Rhone style traditions. Like a cat stretching, this wine purred with warmth and intricacy. Although there were was a definite boldness to the nose I wasn’t overpowered and the wine was delicate enough not to overwhelm the scallops with bacon and wild mushrooms I had for my main course.

My overall impression was of a well crafted, full bodied wine. Rich in dark, black and red berry fruit it was held together with heat from pepper and the slightest hint of tobacco.  A smooth finish left me savoring this wine as it slipped down my throat and the bottle was empty far too soon. The 2007 Grenache has whetted my appetite to try Outpost’s other creations by Thomas Rivers Brown. Not too bad a result from a Saturday night meal out on the town, to say the least…

Absinthe can be found at 398 Hayes Street, San Francisco, CA 94102 - (415) 551-1590

While for more information about Outpost wines - www.outpostwines.com