Well it is finally done, literally hundreds of samples tasted over the last year have been tallied up and the results are ready for publishing.  As an overview, the list is heavily influenced by one region, Napa Valley and one varietal, Cabernet Sauvignon. Out of the twenty-five best wines I tried in 2009:

 

• Fourteen are from Napa Valley 
• Eleven are Cabernet Sauvignon
• Four are Pinot Noir
• Two each Chardonnay, Grenache, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc
• Fourteen winemakers representing seventeen brands
• Nine brands and nearly as many winemakers make their first Top25 list appearance
• Three of the last four Winemakers of the Year are recognized with several wines

 

One of the most talked-about issues in 2009 was that the era of ultra expensive “cult” wines from Napa Valley had ended and formerly loyal consumers were jumping off the mailing lists so fast that many wineries were in free fall with no bottom, or for that matter, a soft landing in sight.

A contributing factor to this malaise has been the saturation of brands that show up in deep national distribution. Wineries that were the must-haves among collectors during the ’80s and ’90s grew to become some of the most readily known ‘faces’ from California with production levels in the mid to high five digit levels. What they once represented as the cutting edge has now been supplanted by boutique producers - under 2500 - 3500 cases, yet some of these smaller brands are now facing their own issues of having priced themselves at a point where economic conditions don’t support sustaining their sales at the previous levels. Because many of these wines have exceeded the price/availability threshold of what consumers find acceptable, it led me to stipulate a price limit of $200.00 per bottle, and a 2500 case production level on wines I considered for the list. That didn’t keep some wines that were twice that expensive, or 20x the production from showing up at either Lulu’s or my studios. 

I like that within the parameters of what I requested, there is a significantly strong showing of what is literally my backyard, Napa Valley. I want to thank all of those who submitted samples throughout the year and especially during the final push. Special gratitude to my tireless Coordinator, Lulu Roberts, for writing the requests for samples, following up on details, showing up when I can’t and encouraging me to try new things she has come across. The list is arranged by score. Overall these are superb wines, with an eye towards uncompromising quality. Even though some exceed the $100 a bottle level, they are every bit as good as wines I tasted that were three times the price. I hope you enjoy the list and please visit the winery websites (click on the images) for more information and options to order or sign up for their mailing lists.

2006 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon, Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard; DW 97 $135.00

Winemaker: Phillip Titus

Aroma: sun-warmed black fruits, chocolate, violet, rock salt and tapenade kissed with verbena and the faintest hint of Clementine zest 

Palate: already enormously rich and dense with complex layering of chocolate, black fig, gooey medjools, blue plum and espresso

Impression: in what should be currently fairly angular youth, the PHEV already displays rare precociousness that continues to evolve in the glass. Showing beautifully polished tannins, depth and balanced intensity.  It is still very early for 2006 Napa Cabernet, but as it stands right now, PHEV is my benchmark. 

Celia Welch: Proprietor, winemaker Corra Wines

Winemaker of the Year, 2008 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2006 Corra Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley; DW 97 $125.00

Winemaker: Celia Welch 

14.5% alcohol, 230 cases produced

Aroma: dense, dark black fruits, cherry and crisp raspberry, graphite and dark chocolate

Palate: lush, creamy and full-bodied entry, with excellent balance throughout, finishing with delicate black raspberry, cranberry and currant

Impression: another stunner. Beautiful if you want to enjoy now for its elegance, will continue to gain weight for years to come.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bret Lopez: Proprietor, JJ Cohn Vineyard and Scarecrow, grandson of JJ Cohn who planted the first vines on the property in 1945

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2006 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley; DW 96 $175.00

Winemaker: Celia Welch

14.8% alcohol, “By the time I got around to tasting, the wine had been open for about two hours which is usually when the Scarecrow begins to open up and show what it is all about…” DW

Aromas: Showing the textbook violet, dark plum, crushed blueberry essence, and seductive elements of espresso

Palate: Full velvet-like texture backed by firmly focused acidity, showing expansive black currant, dark cherry and violets with hints of licorice and blossoms

Impression: The texture is what separates this wine for me in virtually every vintage. It shows such sophisticated dimension and finely tuned balance.

Not surprisingly, this wine is highly allocated to a completely subscribed mailing, and waiting list and is available in limited quantity.

 

 

 

 

Nigel Kinsman: Winemaker, Krupp Brothers

2005 Krupp Brothers Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard, Napa Valley; DW 96 $110.00

Winemaker: Nigel Kinsman

15.4% alcohol, 468 cases produced, 100% sourced from Block M5; a 5.93 acre vineyard planted to Weimar clone

Aromas: spectacular shaved chocolate, black cherry with incredible density and purity

Palate: boldly saturated fruit with a powerful wave of lushness layered with rich and complex structure of black cherry, currant, and loamy blackberry finishing with some firm tannin.

Impression: The iron fist in the velvet glove, revisited - an exceptionally well made wine

 

 

 

2005 Wolf Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate; DW 96

Winemaker: Karen Culler

14.9% alcohol, 535 cases produced

Aromas: dark, intense and pure blackberry jam, herbs and coffee

Palate: extremely sexy flavors of layered plum, blackberry and violet - some of the purest flavor components I have encountered

Impression: a stunning wine that is a joy to drink, impeccable structure, depth and elegance

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kenneth Juhasz: Proprietor, winemaker, Auteur Wines

Winemaker of the Year, 2006

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2007 Auteur Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard, Willamette Valley; DW 96

Winemaker: Kenneth Juhasz

13.9% alcohol, 313 cases, 100% Wadenswil clone

Aromas: flint, mineral, cherry and chocolate explode from the glass

Palate: violet, cherry, preserved orange and clove develop after 48 hours with plenty of acidity to support it

Impression: very tightly wound when first opened - barely rated a 90 on day one of three. Require a lot of patience 

 

2007 Auteur Pinot Noir Sonoma Stage Vineyard, Sonoma Coast; DW 96 $60.00 

14.4% alcohol, 247 cases produced

Aromas: blueberry, dried plum, sassafras, violet-dipped juicy black cherries, cola, carbon and salted black licorice

Palate: immediately concentrated with a sense of free falling through a kaleidoscope, showing different flashes as you pick up speed - rich currant, sassafras, pomegranate, cocoa and raspberry. The finish shows pristine lilac-laced acidity providing plenty of focus to the copious fruit impressions

Impression: a boldly dense wine that will no doubt show better on day two, or possibly even three!

 

2007 Buccella Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley; DW 96 $150.00

Winemaker: Celia Welch

14.6% Alcohol, 1110 cases produced

This is the wine that started it all in the 2002 vintage resulting in a seamless progression of excellence year after year. 

Aromas: Sandalwood, toast, blackberry, tar, graphite, dark cherry and hints of orange or Clementine skins

Palate: Shows a firm entry with shadings of stone fruits, mineral and licorice. Given some airing, the structure got even more intense - offering coffee and blackberry

Impression: As noted previously, the wine is very much in infancy but showing more dimension than in the spring. Don’t touch until 2015

 

 

2007 Buccella Merlot Napa Valley; DW 96 $75.00

Winemaker: Celia Welch

14.7% alcohol, 330 cases, blended with 4% Cabernet Sauvignon

The third consecutive vintage of excellent Merlot from Buccella leaves the taster wanting very little.

Aromas: Superb integration of seamless cherry, mineral and cocoa with hints of sweet herbs and yellow stone fruits

Palate: Mocha, blackberry, plum, cherry are all nicely interleaved together

Impression: With all of the forward fruit quality, there is also a good measure of acidity that emerges after an hour or two with air. Decanting for 20-30 minutes is recommended to show this wine at its most dazzling

 

 

Abe Schoener: Proprietor, winemaker, SCHOLIUM PROJECT

Winemaker of the Year, 2005

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2007 Scholium Project La Severita di Bruto, White Wine, Farina Vineyard, California; DW 95+

Winemaker: Abe Schoener

88 cases produced, 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Aromas: Meyer lemon, mineral, salt and smooth peach

Palate: rich, creamy and smooth up front, the finish has excellent weight and texture

Impression: very exciting stuff, never fails to impress

 

2006 Buccella Merlot Hyde Vineyard; DW 95+

Winemaker: Celia Welch

14.8% alcohol, 343 cases produced, 90% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec

Aroma: black fig, boysenberry and some hints of smoked meats

Palate: great texture - supple entry of plum, blackberry conserve with some racy raspberry adding a bit of grip at the end

Impression: A beautiful follow-up to the stunning debut from this producer, excellent structure with smooth prune, dates and blackberry. Easily the new benchmark for California Merlot!

 

2006 Buccella Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley; DW 95

Winemaker: Celia Welch

15.2% alcohol, 792 cases produced 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, 1% Petite Verdot, 1% Malbec

Aroma: Salt, some dry mineral hints, black currants with very concentrated core showing hints of cedar and cocoa

Palate: lush and expansive with deep rich black cherry and hints of freshly ground garden herbs, blackberries, espresso and chocolate

Impression: a bold wine from the very beginning with impressive structure

 

2007 Littorai Pinot Noir The Haven Vineyard, Sonoma Coast; DW 95

Winemaker: Ted Lemon

13.9% alcohol

Aromas: tightly focused blossoms - violet and geranium with an enticing core of black and blue fruits

Palate: impeccably smooth and polished blue plum, black raspberry and licorice hints

Impression: First class elegance and finesse throughout - find and buy!

 

 

 

 

 

(l - r) Jeff Pisoni, winemaker, Bill Vyenielo, Proprietor, Baton Winery

 

 

 

 

 

 

2007 Baton Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast; DW 94

Winemaker: Jeff Pisoni

14.5% alcohol, 300 cases produced

Aromas: more seamless than the excellent 2006, smoothly integrated and polished toast, citrus and grains

Palate: beeswax, blossoms and butter cookie combine in a richly framed mélange of carefully balanced oak toast and understated, elegant fruit. Again, the acidity adds to the seamless experience

Impression: a wine hitting on all cylinders already like this will have no trouble finding well-sorted cellars to crawl in to. The keyword here is pedigree. 

 

2007 Littorai Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard, Sonoma Coast; DW 94

Winemaker: Ted Lemon

13.7% alcohol

Aromas: wet river stones, lemon, fresh herb and toasted grain and salt

Palate: crisp and impeccably balanced flavors of lemon, pear and licorice

Impression: should be the Poster Child of California Chardonnay… it really wants for nothing

 

2006 Krupp Brothers The Doctor, Red Wine, Napa Valley; DW 94 $75.00

Winmaker: Nigel Kinsman

14.8% alcohol, 468 cases produced, 37% Tempranillo, 28% Merlot, 21% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon

Aromas: rich, polished herb-laced with deep mocha and violet, more black fruits emerge with air

Palate: beautiful polished violet and chocolate with nice underlying acidity and notes of mocha

Impression: good structure with excellent depth and polish

Aaron Pott: Winemaker, Seven Stones Winery

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2006 Seven Stones Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley; DW 94+

Winemaker: Aaron Pott

15.5% alcohol, 300 case production

The wine was decanted one hour + before tasting

Aroma: graphite and blackberry with camphor, ripe black cherry and licorice

Palate: impressive structure with lush shadings of velvet-like black fruit and crushed, crisp berries showing excellent balance through the mid palate to a long finish

Impression: the oak is already beautifully integrated into the wine embracing it with great texture and nuance

 

 

 

 

 

 

2006 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, St. Helena, Napa Valley; DW 94 $130.00

Winemaker: Jennifer Williams

14.1% alcohol, 2743 cases

Aromas: Deep, evolved cocoa, blackberry, nascent violet and hints of raspberry

Palate: chocolate and dense black fruit

Impression: An enormously pleasurable wine - a perennial favorite

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2008 Scholium Project Riquewihr White Wine, Lost Slough Vineyard, California; DW 94+

Winemaker: Abe Schoener

15.8% alcohol, 280 cases produced in 500mL bottling

Aroma: a nose of peach dripped on sponge cake, crumbled carbon and exotic nectarine

Palate: smooth, lush and ripe. The flavors have a dreamy, creamy feel

Impression: Gewurztraminer is a go!

 

2008 Auteur Pinot Noir Ophelia, Willamette Valley; DW 94

Winemaker: Kenneth Juhasz

13.2% alcohol, 207 cases produced

Aromas: more evolved and forward than the 2007, powdered chocolate, carbon, vanilla and cherry

Palate: rich, beautifully formed entry - gobs of cola, black cherry smoothness and full-bodied spiciness

Impression: velvet-like mineral structure - very attractive texture

 

2006 Lindstrom Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District; DW 93+

Winemaker: Celia Welch

14.5% alcohol

Following the extraordinary 2005 debut vintage from Greg and Carol Lindstrom’s 4-acre Nicali Vineyard that captured my top rating for a Cabernet Sauvignon last year, the new release is a solid follow-up.

Aroma: licorice, blackberry, currant and subtly smoked cherry

Palate: smooth and firm through the middle with nicely formed texture, the finish is ripe berry, black cherry and chocolate

Impression: If fortunate enough to be on the mailing list for this highly allocated wine, consider yourself lucky. There is very little that ever makes it in to retail. It seems to hold a bit more in reserve right now and will benefit from 3 - 5 years in the cellar.

 

 

 

2007 Mathis Grenache, Sonoma Coast; DW93

Winemaker: Peter Mathis

14.6% alcohol

Aromas: Cherry, flowers, graphite and smoke

Palate: meaty, forwardly ripe with plenty of violet pastille and dense blackberry on the finish

Impression: Black raspberry smoothness really completes the finish on this wine - splendid

  

 

Helen Keplinger: Proprietor, winemaker, Keplinger Wines

a 2008 winemaker to watch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2007 Keplinger Red Slope Knights Valley; DW 93

Winemaker: Helen Keplinger

15.0% alcohol, 90% Grenache, 10% Syrah

Aromas: Graphite, sun-warmed stone fruit skins

Palate: ripe and riveting, laser-focused intensity, smooth and sophisticated

Impression: Very well put together with plenty lushness throughout

 

2008 Capture Sauvignon Blanc, California; DW 93

Winemaker: Denis Malbec, May-Britt Malbec

14.5% alcohol, 550 cases produced

Aroma: vibrant citrus with a bit of dusty, gravelly undercurrent, capped by nectarine and a rich nuttiness.

Palate: unique juniper and floral flavors with pure grapefruit and a stony backbone, shows excellent acidity with a bit of salt-dipped chili on the finish.

Impression: a beautiful first release. Can’t wait for the reds!

 

 

 

2006 Parallel Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, Napa Valley; DW 93

Winemaker: Philippe Melka

14.7% alcohol 13 barrels produced

Aromas: Tar, rich, velvety licorice and lanolin; massive

Palate: Beautiful, full-bodied texture - copious black fruits with spice-laden palate giving some grip to the fruit

Impression: Solidly oaked, but not obtrusive