The last three or four years of writing reviews has brought dozens of hot, new producers to the attention of readers, but none has created more attention than Kenneth Juhasz’s Auteur. From their fledgling beginning with 2003 vintage wines from Oregon, the brand has grown to include offerings from California as well while retaining their core philosophy of small lot, vineyard designated wines, all of the highest order. In a nod to experimentation, Kenneth has produced Ophelia, in each of the last three vintages. It is the ultimate “wild card” wine (always Pinot Noir, but different slices/blends of vineyards each year). In 2008, it carries an AVA appellation for the first time. 

Auteur became the first wine to ever return back to back 100 point scores from me for the 2005/2006 Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard. Additionally, the 2006 releases of the Auteur Pinot Noir from Sonoma Stage Vineyard, and Manchester Ridge (premiere release) also scored perfectly. 

Those who have tried these wines either get them, or they don’t. One of the biggest mistakes people make with Auteur wines is they pull the corks, pour the wines and finish them within an hour while scratching their heads and thinking to themselves “What the hell is all the excitement about?” If you open and decant 24 - 48 hours in advance, they nearly without fail provide some of the most consistent enjoyment available anywhere. And I mean “leave them open to air”, no corks or stoppers needed. It is astonding how “bullet-proof” these wines are, even the Chardonnay, in how they continue to evolve (improve) through contact with oxygen.

Last week, on the cusp of the Fall 2009 release, I contacted the winery with an idea to assemble wines from several releases for a retrospective tasting. Here is what Kenneth delivered.

Chardonnay

2007 Hyde

2008 Hyde

2008 Durell

Pinot Noir

2007 Ophelia

2008 Ophelia

2007 Sonoma Stage

2008 Sonoma Stage

2007 Shea

2008 Shea

2007 Manchester Ridge

Not content to leave well enough alone, I pulled my last bottles of 2006 Shea and Sonoma Stage and added them to the mix making an even dozen. The office was nearly glowing, there was so much orange action!

If I haven’t mentioned it before - tasting protocol for Auteur includes three days of what I refer to as “active neglect” meaning that after pulling the corks, do absolutely nothing to try to preserve them. You just prolong the amount of time you need to wait until the wines are spun up to full song… yes, even the Chardonnay.

Rather than break the wines up by vintage, I will instead describe them within the context of when they were, or for that matter, will be released.

Fall 2007

2006 Auteur Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard, Willamette Valley; DW 100

Nothing quite like throwing down the frigging gauntlet right out of the gate. This was one of the last wines added to the tasting, and because of what it is ended up being in the last flight. Another thing is that I found this and the 2006 Sonoma Stage in a box under a table in my spare bedroom, so much for the notion of handling with care… Again the tasting protocol is intended to alternatively loosen the wines up and ultimately drive them into the asphalt. This is another example of why this wine remains an icon. Breathtaking…

Aromas: deep, smooth cherry, violets and medjool date

Palate: chocolate, figs, pulverized, brown sugar-kissed cherry entry with a deep core of spiced red and black fruits. 

Impression: after 48 hours of air, it is all there. Harmoniously dense, rich and smooth

2006 Auteur Pinot Noir Sonoma Stage Vineyard; Sonoma Coast; DW 94

Aromas: rich nose of black cherry, carbon, licorice, root ark and cola

Palate: full, seamless entry with gobs of rich suppleness on the mid palate

Impression: Lots of vitality throughout finishes with smoothly defined cherry, bramble and cola

Fall 2008

2007 Auteur Pinot Noir Sonoma Stage Vineyard, Sonoma Coast; DW 96

Aromas: tumbled river rocks, red cherry, flint, carbon, root bark, chocolate mole and hints of delicate violet

Palate: vibrant, beautiful acidity that evolved over 48 hours revealing lavender, sweet cherry, chocolate and spice

Impression: texture on the finish immediately forms the mouth into the shape when one utters the word “wow”

Spring 2009 

2007 Auteur Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard, Carneros; DW 92

Initially this wine seemed limp and lifeless, only attaining final impression after 48 of air and two serial refrigeration cycles…

Aromas: the color is very faint gold hue - virtually colorless except for the core in the glass. baked apple spice with hints of pineapple, butter cookie and salt

Palate: crisp, lively baked apple, firm apricots wrapped in pear and peach richness

Impression: final impression arrived at ambient temperature where it had been for 24+ hours

2007 Auteur Pinot Noir Ophelia, California / Oregon; DW 93

Aromas: fruit soars from the glass, rock sugar, geranium, smoked meat, root bark, sour cherry and lapsang tea

Palate: floral entry of round geranium, orange, clove, dark cherry develops into a brooding richness finishing with soft carbon and lavender hints

Impression: lean and well focused

2007 Auteur Pinot Noir Manchester Ridge, Mendocino Ridge; DW 96

Aromas: rose petals, orange, clove, hints of root bark and brown spices, zest of Meyer lemon and waxy vanilla

Palate” floral - violet purity with white raspberry bite… intense flavor profile with an ethereal lightness.

Impression: very nicely structured, shows a bit of licorice, herb, mineral and graphite in the finish

2007 Auteur Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard, Willamette Valley; DW 96

Aromas: flint, mineral, cherry and chocolate explode from the glass

Palate: violet, cherry, preserved orange and clove develop after 48 hours with plenty of acidity to support it

Impression: very tightly wound when first opened - barely rated a 90 on day one of three. Require a lot of patience 

Fall 2009

2007 Auteur Chardonnay Durell Vineyard, Sonoma Coast; DW 93

Aromas: pineapple, coconut, grapefruit, mineral, wet stone and peach tart

Palate: full richness, mouth coating and shows off crisp riesling-like character with hints of petrol, apricot and baked pear/apple

Impression: warm stone fruits and cool acidity - the finish lasts well over 60 seconds…

2008 Auteur Pinot Noir Ophelia, Willamette Valley; DW 94

Aromas: more evolved and forward than the 2007, powdered chocolate, carbon, vanilla and cherry

Palate: rich, beautifully formed entry - gobs of cola, black cherry smoothness and full-bodied spiciness

Impression: velvet-like mineral structure - very attractive texture

2008 Auteur Pinot Noir Sonoma Stage Vineyard, Sonoma Coast; DW 95

Aromas: firm, crisp carbon, mineral chocolate dust and black cherry

Palate: supple, sleek and focused with nice acidity, some bark and black cherry showing hints of vanilla

Impression: dusty chocolate, espresso notes and cherry stone feel to the slightly firm, textured finish

Spring 2010

2008 Auteur Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard, Carneros; DW 92

Aromas: as with the 2007, very clear except in the core. Spice, meyer lemon, graphite, flint and pineapple

Palate: rich, focused, nice acidity, stone fruits, apricot and peach

Impression: firm and focused, good weight, even on day three at ambient temperature. 

2008 Auteur Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard, Willamette Valley; DW 95

Aromas: full, vibrant richness; fig, caramel and briar

Palate: alive, focused chocolate essences with beautiful polish

Impression: such integration at this stage is extraordinary

For best selection on currently available releases and next year, contact the winery directly at 

Auteur. According to their website, they are offering free shipping for orders placed before October 15th.