I know the image to the left is a bit abstract, but so is anything that is hard to explain when first presented. 

Four years ago today I got my first chance to taste a new wine from a gentleman I had been introduced to by a mutual friend. 

The gentleman was named Michael Polenske and when I first heard that he was another investment banker launching a wine brand, I initially thought to myself “Don’t these guys know that owning a winery is not something you do part-time?”

I had witnessed too many projects die on the vine after someone who had a great deal of success in another career jump into the wine business and think they can steer their path to success with the first vintage and charge a great deal of money for something that at the end of the day is one of literally thousands of choices - it needs to be superb out of the gate to make any kind of impression.

When I first learned about this project, I asked what the varietal was and was told it would be Merlot. In my heart I felt this was at best a mediocre choice since there were only three or four “A list” Merlot sources in California with most all of the other production not rising much past B- level in most professional’s opinions. I had pretty much lost any interest, then I heard the name of the brand - Blackbird Vineyard… and all of a sudden I knew that this project out of thousand that came before it had the potential for greatness as long as it was made with respect and integrity by a top winemaker, it stayed small and the owner didn’t meddle too much along the way.

My first exposure to Blackbird Vineyard fruit was the 1999 Selene Merlot Blackbird Vineyard, made by Mia Klein and it pretty much served as my benchmark for the varietal at the time - even eclipsing Paloma Merlot from Spring Mountain that was awarded the coveted Wine Spectator Wine Of The Year. To me, it wasn’t even a contest - and Mia’s designate only included 55% Blackbird fruit. Like winning a marathon wearing only one shoe.

2003 Blackbird Merlot

As I probed further into the details of the winery and its first release I learned Michael had bought the vineyard just prior to harvest and since there were existing contracts to sell fruit to other wineries there had been a mere 75 cases of the debut release made. His winemaker was the highly regarded Sarah Gott. I began realizing that all the earmarks for something special were in place so far.

That was when I met Michael and quickly realized he knew clearly what he was getting into, was going to be hands off with the winemaking but provide Blackbird with everything it needed for eventual success. What was a surprise to many was how quickly that success manifested. 

I tasted the 2003 Blackbird Merlot on October 3, 2005 and scored it 98 points. It later was recognized as the highest rated red wine I experienced all year in my annual top 25 list. For me it was an eye-opening experience… Michael and Paul Leary, his COO, came to my office with a bottle and we tasted it together. They left it behind for me to revisit and I ended up leaving the wine on my desk until the following Monday. When I came back to the wine, it was superb. 

For a reviewer it is important to do two things consistently - be honest and be first. My review was the first ever published on Blackbird Vineyard and what followed were other opinions that strongly reinforced the idea that Blackbird was that rare thoroughbred that just quietly stepped into the starting gate and won its first race with ease. 

The only issue was that with 75 cases of wine, the premiere release of Blackbird would be gone in a flash. My clients at the time could get a maximum of three bottles. We all needed to wait patiently for the 2004. When it came out, it was blended with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. I initially thought this was the wrong way to go but realized it gave Sarah and newly appointed winemaker, Aaron Pott, more flexibility in creating the best wine from their vineyard every year. 

Now in its 5th release, Blackbird has further differentiated its portfolio to include three red wines that serve as unique interpretations of what different blends can taste like. Few wineries have the ability to do this beyond the lab level where they will experiment with a blend to make their best singular wine. Blackbird now must be considered as nothing less than “a triple threat”.

I tasted the most recent vintages of Blackbird alongside the previous release and thought that the 2007 vintage were tasting a bit young, but will reach the levels of integration showing in the 2006 currently. Hre are my notes.

2006 Blackbird Illustration Proprietary Red Wine; DW 93

1195 cases, 14.5% alcohol 86% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon

Aromas: Black cherry, herb, graphite and quince

Palate: Firm tannic entry with huge fruit; blackberry, polished cherry, chocolate and herb

2007 Blackbird Illustration Proprietary Red Wine; DW 92

1324 cases, 14.5% alcohol, 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec

Aromas: Subtle herb hints with cherry, graphite and salt

Palate: Violet, herb, chocolate and espresso

2006 Blackbird Paramour Proprietary Red Wine; DW 93

287 cases, 14.4% alcohol, 48% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon

Aromas: Forward cherry and nougat with hints of berry and graphite

Palate: Polished entry with licorice, cherry and toasted chocolate - full, polished black fruit

2007 Blackbird Paramour Proprietary Red Wine; DW 90

534 cases 14.5% alcohol, 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon

Aromas: Lavender, cherry, pretty tightly wound at this stage

Palate: firm, floral, cherry, graphite and toast

2006 Blackbird Contrarian Proprietary Red Wine; DW 92

414 cases, 14.4% alcohol, 38% Cabernet Franc, 34% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon

Aromas: Rich polished cherry and camphor

Palate: very pretty and full bodied, polished with excellent structure

2007 Blackbird Contrarian Proprietary Red Wine; DW 91

538 cases, 14.5% alcohol, 46% Cabernet Franc, 34% Merlot,  20% Cabernet Sauvignon

Aromas: Earthy loam, clove, salt and leather

Palate: rich, smooth, evolved profile showing hints of lavender

2004 Blackbird Proprietary Red Wine; DW 92

14.3% alcohol, 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon

Aromas: evolved nose, showing that it is entering maturity

Palate: polished delicate leather hints, cherry and blueberry

So, what is the image at the top of this post? Some may say grapes, but it is actually a pixelated representation of the Blackbird label. I thought it looked pretty cool plus it points out that in the eye of the beholder anything can be imagined - even creating a world-class wine in your first release.